Goa, India: Land of bread eaters

When we talk about Goa, it is impossible to not talk about its bread and the history that comes with it. The early -morning breeze carries the poder's (bread carrier) honking waking the people up, much-needed. 

Goan Poee

Like France or Germany, a soft artisanal roundel bread is at every goan meal; it is a staple. The pao which is traditionally baked in coal ovens or wood-fired ovens, is a part of almost every Goan meal. The art of bread making has been left here by the Portuguese (cannot thank them enough) which then spread out throughout India. It was the Goans who first opened bakeries in Mumbai which led to pao gaining massive popularity that continues till today. The art of making soft leavened breads have been there since the 1500s. Nowadays, breads are being baked in electric ovens, but few bakeries till date bake their breads in a traditional manner, to which they say it gives the breads better crust and a smoky aroma. 

Bread making in Goa was customarily prepared with whole wheat and toddy, to give it a Goan flavour. Unfortunately, over time, the price of toddy has risen drastically. Toddy that costed Rs. 10-20 now costs Rs. 175-200, higher, after the pandemic. Less than 50 bakeries in Goa today bake their breads in the traditional manner, like Da Lima Bakeries and Confectioners who bake their breads a hundred percent with wheat and teach breadmaking too.

                                                                      Katre (butterfly bread)
 

It is said that the Jesuits, who were a part of the Salcete sub-district, by the Portuguese in Goa, passed on the methods of making breads to the new Christian converts. The members of the Chardo caste of Marjoda helped produce the key ingredient, that is toddy, that made Goan bread what it's famous for. In fact the word poder is derived from the Portuguese word padeiro, meaning baker. 

Despite being so popular and a staple, several bakeries have been closed down either because the families could not take the loss or the profit margin was very less. Hence, some baker families, to restore the art of bread making and revive the whole process, take turns in producing the breads, so as to help everyone learn about breadmaking. Each family produces about 800 to 1000 breads a day for four to five months and then pass it on to the next family. 

Let's talk about a few Goan breads- 

Pao: A semi-soft shaped bread is famous all over India. It is the closest to a western 'bread roll.' It is usually stuffed with meats and veggies and is a great accompaniment to the ros omelette. 

Katro Pao: Shaped like a butterfly, this bread gets its name from kator , a Konkan word for scissor which is used to shape the bread as such. It is quite popular at breakfast and takes around 5 minutes to bake. 

Kankonn: Kankonn gets its name from kankan, meaning bangle since it resembles the shape. It is a donut-shaped bread that has a hard crust and is typically enjoyed during tea time or with a bowl of hot soup. It is said that, this bread is stored during monsoon so as to be able to enjoy it with tea anytime. 

                                                                             Kankonn

Godd Poyi: Kunddeachi poyi (husk poyi) is prepared with whole wheat, but godd poyi is prepared with all purpose flour, or maida, giving the bread a softer texture. It is bigger in size compared to the husk poyi and is sliced open, butter is applied in a generous amount and enjoyed with a cup of hot tea.

Undo: Undo is a bread smaller in size with a slit in the middle. It is most enjoyed with a Goan cutlet. This bread is baked at lower temperature resulting in a brittle crust, yet the inside of the bread is soft and fluffy. 

Other than these, there are several Goan breads that are unheard of like the pretzel like kankon and sweet panke, paderancho, etc. Eventhough the art of making bread had started disappearing in some manner, more and more people nowadays, the young crowd have started taking part in comprehending bread making and taking steps to restore. Filmmaker Sonia Filinto shot a documentary named PÃO that revolves around three different bakeries that make pao and all the struggles and changes that they have had to face in the years of baking this bread. It released in 2018. Another documentary by Sonia is 'Bread and Belonging' where she documents a family has taken up a business and the attmepts they make at reviving the traditional process of breadmaking. Goan breads have always played a huge part in the culinary of Goa and they will continue to do so.

Not my photos, credits to respective owners.

Copyrights Tanya Kumar 2021.